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In this issue, Violet Rose turns her column over to Schacht Spindle Shipping Manager Suzanne Najarian.

Dear Violet Rose,
How do I figure out how to set my warp and how to sley it in the reed using the reeds that I have on hand?
-- Emily

Dear Emily,
One of the first things you must consider when beginning a weaving project is the number of warp ends per inch (epi) in your fabric. This is called the sett. (Sett is a noun; set is the verb.) The sett you choose will depend on a number of factors, including the type of yarn you are using, the weave structure, and how the fabric will be used. There is no one “right” sett for a particular yarn. The same yarn in the same weave structure could be used for different types of fabrics, say for a scarf and for a pillow cover. For the scarf, which you want to be drapey, you would probably set the warp threads farther apart (fewer ends per inch) than for the pillow cover (more ends per inch), which would need to be more tightly woven.

A handy method for determining the sett for plain weave is to wrap your warp yarn around a ruler for one inch, making sure the wraps are snugged up close together without overlapping. Count the number of wraps in an inch and divide by two. (The reason you divide by two is that you need to leave room for the weft yarn to go under and over between the warp yarns.) This would be a good estimate of the sett for a plain weave fabric in a balanced weave. A balanced weave is one in which there are the same number of warp ends per inch (epi) as wefts, or picks, per inch (ppi). If the warp consists of more than one type of yarn, wrap the ruler using the different yarns in the same proportion they will be in the cloth; in this case wrap more than one inch and divide the number of wraps by the number of inches to get an average number of wraps per inch, and then divide by two.

There are many weave structures that require a closer sett than plain weave. For example, in a twill weave the weft goes over and under more than one warp end at a time. This causes both the warps and wefts to group together somewhat so that you will generally want a closer sett than for plain weave in the same yarns. For example, a yarn you would set at 12 epi for plain weave might be set at 15 epi for twill.

Rather than a balanced weave you might want a fabric that is warp-faced or weft-faced. In a warp-faced fabric the warp is predominant and covers most or all of the weft, as in rep weave. In this case the sett would be much closer, two, three, or even four times a balanced sett.

For a weft-faced fabric, where the weft is predominant, the warp threads are set farther apart. For example, a weft-faced rug with a heavy wool weft might be set as wide as 4, 5, or 6 epi. A rug with a rag weft might have a cotton warp set at 12 epi.

We’ve included a Sett Chart for tabby (plain weave) and twill (Chart A). This is a good starting point for determining the sett you need. It’s always a good idea to weave a sample before beginning your project and then to wash it as you would the actual fabric. This will tell you if the sett you’ve chosen will give you the fabric you want.

Chart A

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For weave structures other than plain weave and twill you will need to decide from the description of the weave whether it requires a loose or a close sett. Thread up a small sample to test the sett you have chosen. You may want to resley your sample one or two times to check out several setts.

Choosing a Reed
Once you determine the sett for your fabric, you need to decide which reed to use. You don’t want to have too many warp ends in each dent, and it can cause an uneven fabric if you skip dents (although you may be after this special effect). Generally, you would use a reed that matches the sett, for example a 12-dent reed for fabrics set at 12 epi or 24 epi. If your yarns are thin, you might double or triple them in the dents. For example, a 20/2 cotton could be set at 30 epi and threaded 3 per dent in a 10-dent reed. For most yarns the maximum number of warps per dent is about three or four; with more ends the weft won’t pack in well. You also need to consider the character of the yarns you’re using in the warp. For example, if you are using a textured yarn at 12 epi, a 6-dent reed sleyed two ends per dent would be a better choice than a 12-dent reed sleyed one end per dent because there would be less friction on the warps from rubbing on the reed bars.

Chart B shows how to sley the reed for a particular sett and reed size. You may not always have the optimum reed for your sett, but you may have another reed that will work. The top row in the chart gives the different reed sizes (dents per inch), and the numbers in the columns below are setts. You can find your sett under the reed size you think will work and then read over to the lefthand column to see how to sley the warp ends in the reed. For example, if you only have a 12-dent reed and want to set your fabric at 20 epi, you would sley 1 end in the first dent, 2 ends in the next dent, 2 ends in the following dent, and then repeat this sequence all across the warp. You might also decide to slightly change the sett in order to make the sleying easier. For example, you could sley 23 epi in a 12-dent reed, but it would be easier to change the sett to 24 epi and sley 2 ends in every dent.

Help May Be Close At Hand
Your yarn store or the place you purchase your yarn is also a good source of information. They should be able to help you decide on a sett and reed for your project. There are also a number of good weaving books available. If you decide to weave a project published in a weaving magazine or book, you will be given suggestions for sett and reed size.

— Suzanne Najarian
Schacht Shipping Manager, weaver, knitter, and painter

Chart B