A Letter from the Editor 
Dear Weavers and Spinners,

We’ve had a lot going on here at Schacht. The product I’m most excited about is our new Flip Folding Loom. This feature-full folding rigid heddle loom is a dream to weave on, folds in a jiffy, and has two-heddle capabilities built right into the frame.

Our Incredible Rope Machine has a new design. I really like the smooth action, packaging, and new instructions. This amazing little tool is great for making ropes and trims for all kinds of projects. Check out some of our fabulous ideas below.

Our 1.1 ounce Hi-Lo Spindle joins our 3” (2.2 oz.) and 4” (3 oz.) Hi-Lo’s. It’s already a hit, especially for fine spinning. At $16.50, the price is right.

On a personal level, my new book, Time to Weave, has been released by Interweave Press. This book includes 16 appealing, contemporary projects, as well as many variations and other ideas. Most of the projects require no loom or simple frame looms. I designed the projects with new weavers in mind, but I’m hearing that seasoned weavers are also finding the ideas in Time to Weave exciting. I’m also very pleased that school teachers are buying the book for ideas to use in the classroom. Pick up a copy at your favorite weaving shop. You can also order a copy from us and request a personally autographed copy!

Hope fall finds you at your loom or spinning wheel.

Warm regards,
Jane Patrick

 

Violet Rose
Dear Violet Rose,
I’m a new weaver and I’m having trouble with threads breaking at the selvedge. Help!
Frustrated in Florida

Dear Frustrated,
Broken selvedge threads are a common woe of new weavers. The main reason threads break at the selvedge is because the weaving is drawing in. Two things are happening: the edge threads are getting stretched and the reed is cutting into the threads, causing them to break.

To check your draw-in, bring your beater toward the fell of your cloth and check the selvedge edge against the reed. If you see a sharp angle from the reed to the fabric, your weaving is probably drawing in too much. To rectify this problem, leave more weft in the shed when you throw the shuttle. A 45-degree angle is a good rule of thumb.
--VR

Our expert responds to your Schacht product questions. 
Have a question about a Schacht Spindle product, or a weaving or spinning question? Write her at violetrose@schachtspindle.com. While she can’t answer your questions directly, look here for the answers.

Newsletter in PDF Format



 
 

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Rope Machine Ideas
 Here’s a bunch of ideas exploring the range of ropes that can be made with the Incredible Rope Machine: fat, skinny, shiny, fuzzy, multi-colored. Once you start making ropes, you’ll find many uses for them, from trimming pillows and jackets to creating special curtain tie backs, plant hangers, and even dog leashes. 

Create ropes to complement a special bead or finding. Here, a fine pale aqua cord made of 10/2 pearl cotton sets off a vintage clay bead. Just a single black thread twisted with two weights of linen yarn create a rustic look when paired with a textured clay medallion. You can separate the colors when you thread your rope machine to create a barber pole effect, as illustrated by the bell cord. Mix close-together colors to create a mottled look, as we’ve done with the orange necklace cord. Try twisting strings of beads with yarn or adding single beads along the length of the cord to create necklaces or bracelets.  
 

Using the Rope Machine

1. Clamp the separator to a table top. Determine the desired length of the rope and then tie the yarns to the first hook on the Rope Machine. The Rope Machine should be as far away from the separator as the desired length of rope, plus additional for take-up (the amount is determined by the kind of rope being made - the fatter the rope, the more take-up). Following the diagram, carry the yarns around Peg A, around the middle hook on the Rope Machine, around Peg B, then around the last hook on the Rope Machine, and finally return around the outside of Pegs B and A, ending where you began. There should be two lines of yarn from each peg. For a thicker rope, repeat the process as many times as desired.

2. Begin to make the rope by turning the Rope Machine crank clockwise (this is the direction of the twist in most yarns you will use; you want to put more twist in the yarns and so you need to crank in the direction of the twist). Keep the yarns taut as you crank. The more turns, the tighter the finished rope will be. As the yarns become more twisted they will take up, shortening the rope strands. Crank until the twist is so tight that when tension is released, the yarns kink back on themselves.

3. Now twist the three strands together to make a rope. Take hold of the yarns at the back of the separator. Hold the three strands and pull them slowly away from the separator, twisting them together in a counter-clockwise direction (opposite what you did in the first step). It is helpful to have a second person hold the Rope Machine while you pull the yarn through the separator. Add more twist, if needed, by cranking clockwise.

4. The three strands will naturally twist together. As you pull them through the separator, guide the yarns to ensure that they are even and smooth. As the Rope Machine moves closer and closer to the separator, occasionally give the crank a few clockwise turns to keep the strands tightly twisted. When the Rope Machine reaches the separator, slip the three strands off the hooks and tie an overhand knot in the end to prevent raveling.

 

 

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Schacht Spindle Celebrates National Spinning and Weaving Week

We decided to celebrate National Spinning and Weaving Week ‘at home’ this year. We planned a try-it event for all the workers in the company. Those of us who do weave and spin acted as workshop leaders for a series of three stations: inkle weaving, spindle spinning, and rope-making. It was fun to share our craft with the production workers and company business office.