Flip the Folding Rigid Heddle Loom

The Folding Loom

The Feature-full Folding Rigid Heddle Loom

Parts
1 — Rigid heddle (8, 10, or 12-dent)
3 — Apron rods
2 — 3/16” dowels
2 — Lock knobs
Apron cords:
6 for 15” loom
8 for 20” loom
10 for 25” loom

Accessory Pack
2 — Loom clamps
1 — Warping peg with clamp
1 — Short heddle hook
2 — Stick shuttles

Figure 1: Loom Parts

Flip, the Folding Loom
Your new loom has been crafted from the finest hardwood maple and each piece has been sanded and hand oiled. Flip comes assembled. You only need to install the apron rods and cords and you're ready for warping and weaving.

Unfolding Flip
Step 1. Loosen the black t-knobs on each side of the loom.

Step 2. Pull on the cloth and warp beams to unfold the loom.

Step 3. Insert the lock knobs (figure 2) on each side. Tighten lock knobs and black t-knobs.

Directions for folding Flip are below.

Attach the Apron Rods
to the Beams

Attach the apron cords to the beams
Step 1. Insert one end of the cord through the beam hole (figure 3A). Slide the 3/16” dowel through the second to last loop of the apron cord. Repeat for the remaining holes on the beams.

Create a loop for the apron rod
Step 2. Fold the cord about 4" from the free end and insert the folded end through the second loop at the free end of the cord (figure 3B).

Place the apron rod in the cord loop
Step 3. Slide the apron rod through the loop (figure 3B) and pull tight (figure 3C).

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for each cord.

Note: Three apron rods are included with your loom. Two are used for apron rods and the third one is used for lashing onto the back apron rod in certain warping methods.

Figure 2: Unfolding Flip

Figure 3: Attaching apron cords

Glossary of Weaving Terms

Balanced weave: Fabric in which the number of warp ends per inch (see e.p.i.) equals the number of weft ends, or picks, per inch (see p.p.i.).
Beat: To push the weft threads into place with the rigid heddle.
Cross: The figure eight made at one end of the warp when measuring. It keeps the warp ends in order and helps prevent tangles.
Draw-in: The tendency of the weft to pull the warp in during weaving.
End: One warp yarn or thread.
E.p.i.: Ends per inch. The number of warp threads, or ends, per inch, determined by the number of slots and holes per inch on the rigid heddle.
Heddle block: The notched area on the inner face of the loom sides. Holds the heddle in the upper position (on top of the block) or the lower position (under the block). When the heddle is in the notch it is in the neutral position.
Loom waste: The ends of the warp threads which are not usable because they are knotted onto the loom, or remain unwoven.
Pick-up stick: A narrow stick used to pick up patterns and that is turned on edge to create a shed.
P.p.i.: Picks per inch. The number of shots, or picks, of weft per inch.
Plain weave: The most basic weave in which the weft is woven over and under, over and under warp threads. Also called tabby. Rigid heddle: The device that creates the sheds in weaving and is made up of alternate slots and holes. It is also used to beat the weft.
Selvedge: The very outside warp edge of the woven fabric.
Sett: The number of warp ends per inch.
Shed: The space between raised and lowered warp threads through which the weft passes.
Shuttle: A tool for holding and carrying weft.
Sley: To thread the warp threads through the rigid heddle.
Tabby: See plain weave.
Take-up: The amount of warp length “lost” during weaving. The warp, instead of going in a straight line, actually curves over and under the weft, and therefore extra warp yarn is required.
Warp: Noun: the set of threads held taut by the loom. Verb: the process of threading the warp onto the loom.
Warping board: A rectangular frame fitted with dowels that is used to measure the warp.
Weaving: Crossing one set of threads with another.
Web: The woven cloth.
Weft: The threads or yarn which is passed across the warp threads.
Weft-faced weave: A weave in which the weft covers most of the warp. Usually this is achieved by using a thin, widely spaced warp and a thick or soft, closely packed weft

Choose Your Warping Method
There are two warping methods: The direct method using a single warping peg and the indirect method using a warping board.

The direct method, developed by Rowena Hart, is a quick way to warp your loom. It is best for short warps, single-color warps, or striped warps of even numbers. The indirect method is more versatile. It can accommodate longer warps and any color order. The warp is measured on a warping board, then brought to the loom for threading.

If you have never woven on a rigid heddle loom before, the direct method is a quick and easy way to begin.

Direct Warping Using the Single Warping Peg
Measure the warp and thread the heddle
Step 1. Calculate the length of your warp, warp width, and number of warp ends. See "Quick Guide to Warp and Weft Calculations” on the next page.

Step 2. Clamp the back of the loom to the table using the loom clamps (the loom will hang over the edge of the table). The back of the loom is the end with the heddle block (figure 1).

Step 3. Clamp the warping peg as far away from the back apron rod as you want your warp to be long (figure 6).

Step 4. Place your ball or cone of yarn on the floor below the back beam of your loom (figure 5). Place the heddle in the slot labelled “1st heddle neutral” in Figure 1.

Step 5. Bring the apron rod up over the warp beam and rear beam toward the heddle. Tie the end of the yarn to the apron rod at the place that will be the edge of your weaving (figure 4). Find the center of the heddle and then measure to the right half the width of your warp. (For example, if your warp is 10" wide, measure 5" to the right and begin threading at this point.)

Step 6. Using the heddle hook, pull a loop of yarn through a slot in the heddle (figure 5). Place the loop of yarn over the warping peg (figure 6). You now have two warp ends going through a single slot.

Figure 4: Tie onto the apron bar

Figure 5: Pull the warp through the heddle

Figure 6: Place the warp loop on the peg

Quick Guide to Warp and Weft Calculations

Let’s say you’re going to weave a table runner that is 16” wide and 40” long.
A. Calculate the length of your warp. The length of the finished piece is 40”, but you will also need additional warp length for tying onto the loom and other loom waste. The average loom waste is approximately 24”. You should also add to this figure another 10% (= 4”) for take-up, which is the amount of warp length “lost” during weaving. It is a good idea to add another 10% (= 4”) for possible shrinkage when washing the fabric after weaving. Add these four numbers to get the total length required for the warp:

40"		length of piece
24"		loom waste
4"		take-up
4"		shrinkage
72"		total length
or 2 yards

B. Determine the ends per inch (E.P.I.). There is a rule of thumb which is quite useful: simply wind the yarn you want to use as warp around a ruler for 1” so that there are no spaces between wraps. Then count the number of wraps in this 1” and divide by two for the number of ends per inch. Choose the heddle which comes closest to this number. In our example, the warp yarn is set at 10 e.p.i.

C. Calculate the total number of warp ends. Now multiply the width of your planned weaving times the e.p.i. to get the total number of warp ends. In our example: 10 e.p.i. x 16” weaving width = 160 total ends of warp yarn.

D. Calculate the total amount of warp (in yards) needed. Finally, to figure how many yards of warp you will need, multiply the 160 total ends by 2 (the length of each warp end in yards). In our example, you will need a total of 320 yards for warp.

Here’s the simple formula (from steps C and D above):
Total warp ends x length of warp (in yards) = total yards of warp

E. Calculate the weft yarn. The amount of weft yarn you will need is determined by how firmly you pack your weft. For a balanced weave (the same number of wefts per inch as warps per inch), buy the same amount of weft as warp. For a weft-faced weave (where weft packs tightly and covers the warp), buy up to five times more weft than warp.

A more detailed warp and weft calculation sheet is available in the instructions section at www.schachtspindle.com.

Step 7. Measure the next two warp ends. Continuing along the apron rod to the left, pull another loop of yarn under the apron rod (it will encircle the rod) and through the next slot in the rigid heddle. Place the loop over the warping peg (figure 7).

Continue in this manner until all warp ends are measured. You'll notice that you alternately pull the loop above and below the apron rod.

Step 8. After all warp ends have been measured, cut off the yarn from the yarn source and tie the end to the back apron rod.

Wind the warp onto the warp beam
Step 9. Remove the yarn from the warping peg. Hold it tightly in your hand and with a pair of scissors cut the end of the loops. Tie the bundle of warp threads into an overhand knot (figure 8) and set aside.

Step 10. Wind the warp onto the warp beam by turning the warp beam crank handle clockwise. When the warp has been rolled around the beam once, insert heavy paper between the layers to separate them.

Step 11. Continue rolling the warp and paper onto the warp beam. Stop every so often and pull hard on the warp to tighten the paper and warp on the beam.

Step 12. Stop winding when the front end of the warp is about 10" from the heddle.

Thread the holes in the heddle
Step 13. You have two warp ends in each slot. You need to take one end out of each slot and thread it through the adjacent hole using your threading hook (figure 9). Work from one edge of the weaving to the other until all holes have been threaded.

Tie onto the front apron rod
Step 14. Bring the apron rod around and over the top of the front beam so that it is about 6" from the heddle.

Figure 7: Place the second loop over the warping peg

Figure 8: Overhand knot

Figure 9: Thread the holes in the heddle

Step 15. Select a 1" group of threads at the center of the warp and bring them over the top of the apron rod, dividing them in half and tying together around the apron rod using a surgeon’s knot (figure 10). It’s like starting to tie your shoes, except you go around twice.

Step 16. Alternately tie 1" groups to the right and left of center until all groups have been tied.

Step 17. Work back and forth across the warp, tightening all the groups. Pat across the warp to check if all groups have equal tension. Adjust as needed.

Step 18. Tie the ends of each group in a bow tie to secure them. You are now ready to weave.

Indirect Warping Using a Warping Board
For this method, a warping board is used to measure the warp. The warp is first measured on the warping board and then brought to the loom for threading.

Set up a guide string
Step 1. Determine which pegs of the warping board to use by cutting a piece of string a few inches longer than the length of one warp thread. Use a string that is a different color than your warp yarn.

Tie one end of the string to a peg and work back and forth around the pegs until the string runs out. Adjust the starting point until the end of the guide string comes out even at the set of 2 pegs marked x in figure 11.

Measure the warp
Step 2. Tie the end of the warp yarn to the starting peg. Wind back and forth across the warping board following the guide string until you reach the ending two pegs. Wind a figure-eight around these (figure 12). This is the cross and its purpose is to keep the warp ends in order. Wind back to the beginning peg. You have now measured 2 warp ends. Continue following this path until the total number of warp ends are measured.

Figure 10: tie the warp ends to the front apron rod

Figure 11: Wind the warp

Figure 12: Continue and wind the warp back in the reverse direction

Remove the warp from the warping board
Step 3. Secure the cross by tying it loosely with contrasting yarn in five places (figure 13) using overhand knots. Now tie choke ties along the warp at about 18" inch intervals. Tie these tightly with a bow tie. Choke ties keep the warp from tangling. After the warp has been tied, remove it from the warping board. Cut all the loops on the non-cross end and tie the end of the warp bundle in an overhand knot.

Thread the heddle
Step 4. Wrap the warp around the front beam so that it extends about 10" past the heddle.

Step 5. Place the heddle in neutral. Find the center of the heddle and then measure out to one side half the width of your warp. (For example, if your warp is 10" wide, measure out 5" and begin threading at this point.)

Step 6. Hold the cross in one hand so that each section is separated (figure 14), and then cut the loops at the end and the five ties holding the cross. Notice that the threads stack up Lincoln-log style. Take the top end and use the heddle hook to thread it through the slot at the outermost edge of your weaving. Take the next thread and thread it through the adjacent hole. Alternately thread slot, hole, slot, hole until all warp ends are threaded.

Step 7. Tie groups of about 1" of warp ends in overhand knots across the entire warp. Then tie each group around the back apron rod and secure this knot by tightening it up to the first knot (figure 15).

Wind the warp onto the warp beam
Step 8. Begin cranking the warp onto the warp beam in a clockwise direction. Remove choke ties as they approach the heddle.

Step 9. When the warp has been rolled around the warp beam once, insert heavy paper between the layers of warp to separate them.

Step 10. Continue winding on, stopping every so often to pull hard on the warp bundle to tighten the warp on the warp beam.

Figure 13: Tie the cross

Figure 14: Hold the cross

Figure 15: Tie the warp to the back apron rod

Step 11. Stop winding when there is about 10" of warp left in front of the heddle.

Tie onto the front apron rod
Tie onto the front apron rod in the same way as for the direct method (step 15, figure 10, page 7).

Weaving
The first shed is made by resting the heddle on top of the heddle block (there is a shallow notch for it, figure 1). This is called the upper shed. The other shed is made by placing the heddle under the heddle block (the lower shed).

Weave a header
Before beginning your project, it is a good idea to weave a "header" with scrap yarn (figure 16). The purpose of the header is to spread the warp out evenly so that your weaving project can begin on an even, uniform warp. Use scrap yarn about the same size as your project yarn. Weave about three rows without beating and then press these in place with the rigid heddle. If needed, repeat until the warp is evenly spread.

Wind a shuttle
You will need a shuttle for weaving. A stick shuttle about the same width as your warp works well on the rigid heddle loom. Wind the weft yarn around the shuttle in a figure-eight. You can wind along one edge or both edges of the shuttle (figure 17).

Weave your project
To weave on your rigid heddle loom, you alternately raise and lower the rigid heddle. Place your shuttle through the opening between the raised and lowered threads (the shed). Inserting the weft thread at about a 30 degree angle will allow the extra weft necessary. Your weft should be snug at the selvedge but should not pull in. Press the weft into place with the rigid heddle and then weave the opposite shed, returning the shuttle to the other side of the weaving. That's all there is to it! Pretty soon you'll be doing all of the steps automatically.

Remove your project from the loom
When you can't weave any farther or have finished your project, weave a few rows with waste yarn, and cut the warp off from the back of the loom. Unwind the fabric from around the cloth beam and untie or cut off the warp from the front apron rod.

You will need to secure the warp ends from raveling with either knots or stitching. Finally, wash, dry and press your finished fabric!

Figure 16: Weave a header

Figure 17: Wind a stick shuttle

Folding Flip
Step 1. If there is a warp on the loom, loosen the tension on the warp. Turn the crank handle on the front beam clockwise while pulling up on the pawl (figure 1 and figure 18). Loosen the warp one full turn, replace the pawl, and turn the crank handle counterclockwise just enough to re-engage the pawl.

Figure 18: Loosen the tension on the warp

Step 2. Remove the rigid heddle from the heddle block and lay it flat toward the back of the loom, on top of the rear beams (figure 19), with the bottom edge of the rigid heddle in the 2nd neutral slot (figure 1).

Figure 19: Lay the rigid heddle flat

Step 3. Loosen or remove the lock knobs and loosen the black t-knobs (figure 20).

Figure 20: Loosen the t-knobs and loosen or remove the lock knobs

Step 4. Pull up on the black t-knobs to fold the loom (figure 21). Tighten the t-knobs to keep the loom in the folded position.

Figure 21: Pull up on the t-knobs

Step 5. Re-adjust the tension on the warp if needed to keep it in place.

More Reading
Davenport, Betty. Hands On Rigid Heddle Weaving, Loveland, Colorado, Interweave Press, Inc., 1987.

Hart, Rowena. The Ashford Book of Rigid Heddle Weaving, Ashburton, New Zealand, Ashford Handicrafts, 2002.

McEneely, Naomi K. Interweave's Compendium of Finishing Techniques: Crochet, Embroidery, Knitting, Knotting, Weaving, Loveland, Colorado, Interweave Press, Inc., 2003.

Periodicals
Fiberarts, Interweave Press, Inc., 201 E. Fourth Street, Loveland, CO 80537.

Handwoven, Interweave Press, Inc., 201 E. Fourth Street, Loveland, CO 80537.

Shuttle, Spindle and Dyepot, Handweavers Guild of America, 2 Executive Concourse, Suite 201, 3327 Duluth Highway, Duluth, GA 30096.

Websites
Schacht Spindle Co., Inc.: www.schachtspindle.com
Handweavers Guild of America: www.weavespindye.org
Interweave Press, Inc.: www.interweavepress.com
Spinning and Weaving Association: www.spinweave.org

For projects and future information, visit the Schacht Spindle Company website at www.schachtspindle.com. Subscribe to our quarterly online newsletter by email to news@schachtspindle.com. Newsletter back issues are online and can be downloaded or just read online for tips, hints, projects and product information.

Tools for Rigid Heddle Weaving

Pick-up Sticks

Stick Shuttles Trestle Floor Stand

4 1/2 yard and 14 yard Warping Boards