Support: Standard Floor Loom Labeled ImageRead More
Support: How Old Is My Standard Floor Loom?
Standard Floor Loom: The serial number can be found in the middle of the cross piece under the harnesses at the front of the loom. On older looms, the serial number may be on the castle side.
After September 1987, the serial number is the date of assembly (mmddyy.)
FL4 – FL8 = 4 or 8 harnesses
FL4-4 = 4Now-4Later
HC or LC = High Castle or Low Castle
-C = Cherry wood
Up to 4-1256, there are 36″ and 42″ weaving width floor looms. After 4-1256 there are 36″ and 46″ widths.
Standard Floor Loom Serial Numbers
|Serial Number||Assembly Dates|
|Wooden harness channels:
1 through 243
248 through 450
Before May 1979
May 1979 – September 1979
|Metal harness channels:
4-1 through 4-117
8-1 through 8-69
|September 1979 – January 1980|
|4-118 through 4-375
8-70 through 8-154
|January 1980 – December 1980|
|4-376 through 4-730
8-155 through 8-239
|January 1981 – December 1981|
|4-731 through 4-1083
8-240 through 8-330
|January 1982- December 1982|
|4-1084 through 4-1525
8-331 through 8-428
|January 1983 – December 1983|
|4-1526 through 4-1759
8-429 through 8-526
|January 1984 – December 1984|
|4-1760 through 4-2035
8-527 through 8-617
|January 1985 – December 1985|
|4-2036 through 4-2237
8-618 through 8-687
|January 1986- December 1986|
|4-2238 through 4-2377
8-688 through 8-750
|January 1987 – December 1987|
Manual: Tension BoxRead More
Manual: RaddleRead More
Manual: Loom Bench and Bench BagsRead More
Manual: 4-Later KitRead More
Manual: Floor and Wolf Loom Maintenance and WarrantyRead More
Manual: Floor Loom Sectional BeamRead More
Manual: Floor Loom Lamp HolderRead More
Manual: Floor Loom Double Back BeamRead More
Manual: Floor Loom Export AssemblyRead More
Manual: Floor Loom AssemblyRead More
Support: Cherry Wolf – Apron Cord AssemblyRead More
Support: How to Remove Heddles
Equipment required: Strong cotton cord (approx 30” for each shaft) and a Tapestry needle with eye large enough for the cord. If the loom is not threaded, it is easiest to move heddles if you remove the harness from the loom first.
1. Work with one shaft at a time. Make one bundle of heddles for each shaft. If you know how many heddles are on each shaft, label each bundle of heddles with the heddle count.
2. Undo the heddle bar hooks, and release the heddle bars from the hooks, leaving the bars in the shafts for the moment.
3. Group all of the heddles in the center of the shaft. Thread 30” of cord on the needle and pull the cord through all the heddle eyes on the top heddle bar, and then through all the heddle eyes on the bottom heddle bar. Unthread the needle and tie the ends of the cord together.
4. Remove the group of heddles from the heddle bars. Bend the top and bottom heddle bars, and pull the bars out of the side of the shaft and slide the group of heddles off. If you are installing new heddles, slide them onto the heddle bars at this point.Read More
Support: Sticky or Floating Harnesses
– Check to make sure that the loom is level. To check level, place a level across the front beam and then the back beam. If the loom is not level, you can place a wood shim or rubber level (found at hardware stores) under one of the legs. You can also try turning your loom 90 degrees to see if your floor is level in this direction.
– Try spraying a little bit of silicone spray in the metal track. Do not use WD40, it eats at the wood’s finish. Do not use wax in the channels, it will get sticky and build up in the tracks and add to the problem. You can use hard paste wax on the harnesses, but it is important to buff it well to remove any residue that will become gummy.
– Make sure the tie-ups aren’t in a position that pulls one lamm under another while treadling. Tie-up cords should hang straight down to the treadle.
– Make sure the brake ratchet dog is in place. It can flip backwards and catch under the first harness.
– In humid climates, it is possible for wood to swell. Try loosening the jack retainer bolts a half turn to allow more space.
– Make sure the jack/lamm is attached to the harness. There should be a screw and lock nut holding it in place. Is the lock nut too tight? Use a little silicone spray to ease up the lock nut.
– Make sure the metal supports of the jack/lamms aren’t bent. This could cause a wooden lamm to be out of alignment and catch on the one next to it.
– Check to make sure all of the jack/lamm pins are pushed in all the way. If any are loose, the jack/lamm could catch on an adjacent one. If you need more pins, you can order new ones.
– Make sure heddles are spread evenly. If there are many more heddles on one side, this could cause the side of the harness to drop and make the harness stick.
– Make sure heddle bars are locked in place by the heddle bar hooks. Check that the ends of the heddle bars are in the grooves in each side of the harness.
– Check the sides of the harnesses for scratch marks. If there are any marks, check the metal tracks to make sure that the screws are tight and flush with or below the surface of the metal.
– Check to see if the harness is swollen or warped. Take the harness out and lay it on a flat surface to see if it is warped.
– Does the harness have any movement in the track? It should have some play, but not too much. Try the harness in different tracks.
– Too much movement can allow a harness to tip toward one side. To correct this problem, cut a strip (7/16″ x 13″) of thick paper such as a file folder, to fit in the harness channel. Slide the strip of paper into either side channel of the harness that is sticking. This will reduce the space where the harness can tip. You may need one or two strips of paper. If this solution works, e-mail us and we will send a metal strip to replace the paper one.Read More
Support: Cleaning Rust from Reeds
Rusty reeds can be cleaned by rubbing out the rust with fine steel wool or by using a commercial rust remover, such as Naval Jelly. When using these products be sure to follow the directions on the label very carefully. If you use the rust remover, work it between the dents of the reed with a small brush (a toothbrush works well). Rinse the piece very thoroughly. We suggest doing this outside with a hose. Dry it immediately (use a hair dryer, if possible). The tape on the top and bottom edges of the reed may come loose. You can replace it with a cloth tape or duct tape and trim it to size with a knife or razor blade.Read More
Support: Floor Loom and Wolf Loom Brake Troubleshooting
– Brake Won’t Hold
Inspect the brake hub (you don’t need to remove it to do this). If the hub is grooved, the cable will not hold properly. Most often grooves will appear at either edge where the hub butts up against the hub flanges. If you find grooves, the brake hub needs to be replaced. A loom serial number is needed to order a new hub. You will find the number pressed into the wood on either the castle side or the front cross brace above the treadles. Older looms will need a complete brake hub kit, newer looms will usually need a brake hub only.
– Nothing Happens When the Brake Release Is Pressed
If you press on the brake release pedal and nothing happens, it is probably one of two reasons: the cable is too loose and needs to be tightened, or the brake cable is binding. To tighten the cable on Standard Floor looms, tighten the turnbuckle attached to the back beam. On Wolf Looms, tighten the brake bar eye bolt. You can check to see if the brake cable is crossing over itself and is binding. Most often this is caused by a grooved brake hub (see previous paragraph). If this is the case, the brake hub needs to be replaced.
– The Warp Doesn’t Advance
If you attempt to advance the warp using the ratchet advance lever on the front beam, nothing happens. Check to see that the ratchet dog is engaged. You may find that the ratchet dog has flipped backwards into the castle area.
– Warp Advances During Weaving
If your warp is constantly advancing while you are weaving, the brake is not holding and the cable needs to be tightened. Tighten the brake cable by turning the turn buckle on Standard Floor Looms or the brake bar eyebolt on Wolf Looms to snug up the cable. If the cable is still not holding, check the brake hub. If the hub is grooved, the brake will not hold properly. To fix, replace the brake hub.
Please call at 303-442-3212 or 800-228-2553 or email for further assistance.
Support: Adjusting the heddle bar hooks
The end of the heddle bar hook should be approximately 3″ from the outside of the harness frame. If your heddles slide freely on the heddle bars you will not need to make any adjustment to the hooks. If you do need to adjust the heddle bar hook, follow the instructions below.
Remove the harnesses from the loom and lay them flat on a table. Note: it is not necessary to remove the harness from the loom, but if you are putting your heddles on for the first time, it will be easier to make this adjustment.
Before you begin, note which way the groove in the heddle bar hook is facing.
Release the heddle bar from the hook by pulling the slide toward the spring and harness frame and pull the heddle bar out of the way. Using a 1/4″ wrench or pliers, turn the heddle bar hook clockwise to tighten it or counterclockwise to loosen it. The distance from the end of the heddle bar hook to the outside of the harness frame should be approximately 3″.
Be sure to face the groove in the heddle bar hook in the same direction it was in before you adjusted it. Reinsert the heddle bar into the groove and secure it with the slide. You may have to turn the heddle bar hook slightly using the wrench or pliers in order for the slide to slip into place over the heddle bar.
Repeat the process for the heddle bar hook on the other side of the harness.Read More
Support: Adjusting the Beater on Wolf and Floor Looms
If you have found that your beater does not come up square to the front beam, the first and most important thing to check is the level of the floor, as an un-level loom will cause the beater to go slightly out of square. Check the level of the loom by placing a level on the front beam and then on the back beam. If the loom is not level, turn the loom 90 degrees and check the level again. If the loom is still not level, turn it again 90 degrees and check the level.
If after turning the loom you cannot find a level place for it, you will need to adjust the level of the loom by placing a spacer, such as a rubber pad or piece of carpet under the loom leg or legs that are lower. Place the spacer under the lower front leg. Then, check the level on that side front to back. If the loom is not level front to back, place another spacer under the back leg on the same side of the loom. If the beater is still not square, proceed to the next step.
All beaters are precisely set at the factory. Some movement in the position of the beater may occur due to several reasons: shipping and handling, internal movement of the wood due to varying moisture levels of different geographic areas, loosening of bolts. Below is a list of suggestions to assist you in realigning your beater.
Check all of the bolts for tightness. Grab the beater in both hands and twist it in the direction it needs to go. Pull forward on one side and push back on the other. Do this a little at a time until it comes up square to the front beam. Move the beater back and forth to see if it continues to hit squarely. If you find that it still needs adjusting, try the following.
Slightly loosen all four side bolts on the beater race and the two wing nuts on the beater front. Bring the beater to sit squarely against the front beam and retighten all the nuts and bolts. If after tightening all the bolts the frame is still crooked, mark the placement of the beater supports for reference, and slightly loosen both bolts on either side. Again check for square, then retighten the bolts. If the beater is still not square, make a shim (pattern provided below) and use the illustration provided on how to adjust the beater with a shim. It will be easier to do this if you remove the beater top. For example, if you put a shim next to the front bolt on the right side, put the other shim next to the rear bolt on the left side.