Designed by Stephanie Flynn-Sokolov
Plaids and checks are popular again in day and evening wear for both men and women. Ranging from earthy hues to bold and bright, plaids and checks are mixed and matched with prints and solids. This asymmetrical plaid scarf woven in soft hues and luscious Berroco Briza yarn is generously sized and easy to weave on the Cricket Loom from Schacht.
Finished size: finished before washing 80” x 14”; after washing 76” x 13 ½”, plus 7” fringe at each end.
Structure: Plain weave
Yarn: Berroco Briza, 51% Mohair, 43% Nylon, 6% Wool, available in 1.4 oz/40 gr, 219 yd/200 meter balls. You’ll need: 50 yds or 1 ball of dark gray, #9370 Monterey; 180 yds or 1 ball of pink, #9315 Napa; 160 yds or 1 ball of gold, #9303 Mendocino; and 225 yards or 2 balls of light gray, #9309 Marin.
Warp length: 103”
Warping method: Direct peg
Total warp ends: 120
Width in reed: 15”
Ends per inch: 8
Picks per inch: 8
Note: all numbers represent total warp ends. For example 18 ends of Marin would be threaded in 9 slots (in direct peg warping there are always 2 ends in a slot). After the warp is wound onto the warp beam, one warp end is removed from the slot and threaded in the adjacent hole.
Weaving: Allow enough length in your tie-on to accommodate a 10” fringe at the beginning of the weaving. Weave two picks with Marin and then beat. Hemstitch over two warps and two wefts. Begin weaving the scarf using the warping plan as a guide. Weave as the warp is threaded, for example beginning with 18 picks of Marin, 8 picks Mendocino, 6 picks of Napa and so on. As a variation, as we’ve done here, you could vary the stripe pattern somewhat as you weave.
Do not carry yarn up the selvedges as you weave. When starting or ending a color, place the tail around the edge-most warp end and then back into the open shed, overlapping under 6 warp threads. Leave the tail hanging off the surface of the shawl on the front or back. The one exception are the blocks of Napa and Monterey. Since the rows of Monterey are so short, carrying the Napa up the selvedges does not show. Weave until you have 10” of warp remaining. Hemstitch with two warp threads and two weft threads as in the beginning. Remove the weaving from the loom.
Finishing: Place the shawl in a sink full of warm water and some soap (I use Method dish soap). Gently wash the shawl with only a slight bit of agitation. Remove from the water and drain the sink. Rinse the shawl with warm water and squeeze out excess water. Roll in a towel to remove more water. Hang to dry. When dry, place in a dryer with a tennis ball on fluff (no heat) for 20 minutes, checking often. Remove and trim weft tails. Press the scarf with the iron set to the wool setting. Straighten fringe and use a rotary cutter to trim fringe to 7”. Wear with pride.