SETTS FOR COMMON YARNS
One of the first things you must consider when beginning a weaving project is the number of warp ends per inch (EPI) in your fabric. This is called the sett. (Sett is a noun; set is the verb.) The sett you choose will depend on a number of factors, including the type of yarn you are using, the weave structure, and how the fabric will be used. There is no one “right” sett for a particular yarn. The same yarn in the same weave structure could be used for different types of fabrics, say for a scarf and for a pillow cover. For the scarf, which you want to be drapey, you would probably set the warp threads farther apart (fewer ends per inch) than for the pillow cover (more ends per inch), which would need to be more tightly woven.
There are many weave structures that require a closer sett than plain weave. For example, in a twill weave the weft goes over and under more than one warp end at a time. This causes both the warps and wefts to group together somewhat so that you will generally want a closer sett than for plain weave in the same yarns. For example, a yarn you would set at 12 EPI for plain weave might be set at 15 EPI for twill.
The sett chart below for tabby (plain weave) and twill is a good starting point for determining the sett you need. It’s always a good idea to weave a sample before beginning your project and then to wash it as you would the actual fabric. This will tell you if the sett you’ve chosen will give you the fabric you want.
| Yarn Size | Yd/Lb. | Tabby | Twill |
| Cotton | |||
| 30/2 | 12,800 | 36 | 40 |
| 20/2 | 8,400 | 24–30 | 32–36 |
| 10/2 | 4,200 | 24–28 | 30 |
| 8/2 | 3,360 | 20–24 | 24 |
| 8/4 | 1,680 | 12–15 | 20 |
| 5/2 | 2,100 | 15–18 | 20 |
| 4/2 | 840 | 12–15 | 20 |
| 3/2 | 1,260 | 10–12 | 15 |
| Tencel (rayon) | |||
| 30/2 | 12,800 | 32–36 | 45–48 |
| 20/2 | 8,400 | 36–40 | 48 |
| 10/2 | 4,200 | 24–30 | 36 |
| 8/2 | 3,360 | 20 | 24 |
| 5/2 | 2,100 | 16 | 20 |
| Linen | |||
| 20/2 | 3,000 | 20–24 | 30 |
| 10/2 | 1,500 | 12 | 12–15 |
| 12/1 | 3,600 | 22–25 | 30–32 |
| 8/2 | 1,040 | 10–12 | 12–15 |
| 8/3 | 710 | 8–10 | 10–12 |
| 8/4 | 530 | 8 | 10 |
| Wool | |||
| 2/20 worsted | 5,600 | 20–24 | 28 |
| 2/18 merino | 4,800 | 18–20 | 20–24 |
| 2/12 merino | 3,200 | 12–15 | 15–18 |
| 2/8 worsted | 2,240 | 10–12 | 12–15 |
| 3/8 worsted | 1,490 | 8–12 | 12–14 |
| Silk | |||
| 2/60 | 14,880 | 60–65 | 70–80 |
| 2/30 | 7,440 | 32–36 | 40–45 |
| 2/20 | 4,960 | 20–24 | 28–32 |
| 2/12 | 2,970 | 15–16 | 20–24 |
| 2/10 | 2,480 | 15 | 18–20 |
| 2/5 | 1,240 | 12 | 15 |