Herfst Crossbody Tasje

Directions

Warping

1. Follow the Zoom loom instructions and wind the first three layers. Wrap the yarn and cut as usual. Only the last layer will be different from the Zoom Loom instructions. This is where the pattern weaving happens.

Weaving

1. Weave 4 squares with Russet and 4 squares with Shamrock Heather in the Sunken Diamond pattern instructions (from "WEAVE-IT WEAVES", p. 13)

   

Finishing

1. Weave in both ends while the square is still on the loom. Weave in an inch or two to secure the ends.

2. Optional: To ensure the proper pattern direction for assembling, mark the right side of corner 1 on each square. This can be done with a simple string of contrasting yarn or a stitch marker. My personal favorites are mini hair clips.

Assembly

1. Use knitting needles slightly smaller than recommended for the weaving yarn (US3/3.25 mm) to avoid pulling the loops on the woven squares.

2. Lay out four squares as shown, making sure that the pick-up floats point in the same direction. The picture shows all squares with corner 1 at the bottom left.

   

3. Join the first two squares: Working from right to left on the right side, use Oatmeal Heather to pick up one stitch for each loop along the top edge. Pick up 16 stitches along the edge.

   

4. Cross over to the next square by simply continuing to pick up one stitch from each loop.

   

5. At the end of the last square, cut the yarn (left) OR turn and start joining the next set of squares. With the other circular needle, work the next set of squares the same way.

   

6. Join with 3-needle bind-off: Lay the pieces with the knitted stitches facing each other, then pick them up so that the needles with the stitches are in parallel. The right sides are facing out.

7. With a third needle, work a knit stitch through the first stitches on both needles.

   

8. Knit a second stitch the same way, then – on the right needle - lift the right stitch over the left stitch to bind off one stitch. Repeat until all stitches are bound off. Join the remaining sides of the panel the same way.

9. When working the second set of joins, make sure to hold the working yarn on the wrong side, under the fabric as you start picking up loops on the right side. At the intersection, simply pick up the next stitch on the next square. Continue to the end and bind off.

   

10. The right side of the fabric will show a stretchy i-cord-like seam; the seam on the wrong side of the fabric is flat.

    

11. To make the bag body, pick up stitches along three sides of each panel, leaving the top edge open.

    

12. With wrong sides facing, join the two panels on three sides to form the bag. Do not bind off at the end.

    

13. Working the straps: When 2 stitches are left, pick up 2 more stitches for a total of four, then start working a 4-stitch i-cord: Knit 4 stitches, but do not turn. Slide the stitches to the left end of the needle and continue knitting. The edges will come together, forming a tube. Knit for about 25" or to desired length. Bind off.

    

14. Work another strap on the other corner. Adjust the length of the strap by tying a knot. Strap alternatives: Make rope with the Incredible Rope Machine, use a thin leather strap, weave an inkle band, make a kumihimo band.

    

15. Working the turtleneck closure: Starting at one end of the pouch, pick up 64 sts along the top edge of the bag (16 loops per woven square). Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

    

16. Work k2, p2 ribbing for about 40 rounds, then bind off loosely. Weave in any ends.

    

Blocking

1. If using the same materials for all squares and the knitting, I recommend blocking the completed project. If using different fibers, I recommend blocking the woven squares before assembly.
2. Soak in cold water with a non-rinse soap for about 20 minutes. Roll in towel. Lay flat to dry.