Ruffled Scarf
Designed and woven by Jane Patrick
This silk and wool scarf was inspired by one Stephanie Flynn Sokolov designed for our Woven Scarves book (Interweave Press, 2014). For this earthy interpretation, I offset the wool stripe for an asymmetrical look. The 8 dent section allows for extra space for the wool to felt.
Project Specs
Finished size: before finishing, 9" x 64"; after finishing, 7" x 40".
Weave structure: plain weave
Total warp length: 3 yds (includes 24" for take-up and loom waste)
Number of ends: 107
PPI: 12 (measured off tension)
What You'll Need
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Habu #N-85 2/17 Tsumugi (100% silk), color 13 (485 yards needed)
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Mountain Colors Winter Lace (50%wool/50%silk) in Wild Raspberry (54 yards needed)
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Emma’s Creations Crystal in color 8 (18 yards needed)
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10” rigid heddle loom
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10” variable dent reed with three 12 dent and one 8 dent sections
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stick shuttle
Materials
Equipment
Directions
Set up the variable dent reed: 12 dent, 12 dent, 8 dent, 12 dent.
Warp in the following order (left to right): 3 ends Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 1 end Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 1 end Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 52 ends Tsumugi, 20 ends Winter Lace, 22 ends Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 1 end Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 1 end Tsumugi, 1 end Crystal, 3 ends Tsumugi—107 ends total.Weave with 2/17 Tsumugi, color 13, throughout. Begin with hemstitching (3 warps over 2 wefts) and weave a balanced fabric using an even beat. Advancing the warp often will help maintain super straight selvedges. End with hemstitching as you began.
The magic happens in the finishing process. I first washed the fabric in the sink in hot water and Dawn detergent. To felt the center stripe, I laid the scarf on a washboard in the sink and vigorously rubbed the wool stripe section by section the entire length of the scarf until the wool was sufficiently felted to ruffle the fabric. This is an excellent technique to use because you have a lot of control over the felting process. When I was pleased with the felting, I rinsed the scarf in cool water and laid it flat to dry. When dry, I trimmed the fringe to ¼”.
Wear as a scarf or attach closures to join the two halves at the bottom edge to form a ruffled collar.