Barry's Jubilee Scarf
Designed by Jane Patrick; woven by Sienna Bosch
I’ve always loved the Skwoosh scarf that my co-author Stephanie Flynn Sokolov designed for our book Woven Scarves. I used her initial design as a jumping off point for our weave-along scarf, using some of the same yarns from Mountain Colors that Stephanie used for her scarf, but changing the colorway to correspond with our 50th Anniversary colors. I worked with Mountain Colors to create a custom painted warp yarn in their delightful Twizzle yarn (a dream to weave with). We combined this with Merino Ribbon in the warp and used their crepe yarn for weft. These yarns are just a joy to weave with. The scarf is easy to warp and weave and the finishing brings it all together.
Project Specs
Weave structure: plain weave
Finished size: 9-1/2" (24 cm) wide and 66" (167.5 cm) long
Total warp ends: 106
Warp length: 102" (259 cm), which allows 24" (61 cm) for loom waste and includes 12" (30.5 cm) for fringe—6" (15.25 cm) at each end
Width in reed: 13-1/4" (33.5 cm)
EPI: 8
PPI: 7
What You'll Need
-
Warp Yarn: Mountain Colors Twizzle (85% merino, 15% silk at 1,136 yd/lb; worsted weight) in Barry’s Jubilee, 1 skein (240 yards [219 m]).
Mountain Colors Merino Ribbon (80% superfine merino, 20% nylon at 980 yd/lb; bulky weight) in Red Willow, 1 skein (122 yd [111 m]). -
Weft Yarn: Mountain Colors Crepe (100% merino wool at 1680 yd/lb; fingering weight) in Hummingbird, 1 skein (315 yd [288 m]).
-
15” rigid heddle loom
-
8 dent reed
-
stick shuttle
-
fringe twister
-
tapestry needle for hemstitching
Materials
Equipment
Directions
Warping: Use the indirect method or the direct method (instructions below) to warp [6 Twizzle, 4 Merino Ribbon], repeat from [ to ] 10 times, then end with 6 Twizzle.
Weaving: Allow 6" (15.25 cm) at the beginning for fringe (you can include your tie-on for the fringe length). Hemstitch to begin, and weave 7 ppi, checking your beat periodically to maintain a consistent beat until the scarf measures 78" (198 cm). End by hemstitching.
Note: The crepe yarn is stretchy, so we suggest winding it on the shuttle with very little tension.
- Finishing: Remove the scarf from the loom and preserve as much of the fringe length as possible. Make a twisted fringe at either end.
- Wash by hand in hot water with mild detergent and a little agitation. Rinse in warm water.
- To complete the finishing, place your scarf along with a dark towel in the dryer for 20 minutes on a low heat setting. Check often—you don’t want the fabric to become felted! The scarf is finished when the weave structure is obscured. If it looks like it needs a little more fulling, place it back in the dryer for an additional 5 minutes, but no longer. Repeat until sufficiently fulled.
- Finish with a light steam pressing, without compressing the fabric.
Direct Warping, step by step
- Wind all of the skeins into balls. You will use Twizzle and Merino Ribbon for the warp.
Set your warping peg 102" away from the apron rod. Secure your loom to the table with the back facing away from the peg.
Find the center of the reed and measure over to the edge half the warp width. The warp for this project is 13 1/4" wide, so half the distance is 6-2/3".
Begin with Twizzle, tying it to the back apron rod. From the other side of the reed, draw a loop through the slot at the edge of your scarf, and place it around the peg. There will be two warp threads in the slot.
- Take the warp around the apron rod and then through the next slot, and around the peg as before. You will thread three slots with Twizzle. Skip two slots and then thread three slots, repeat for a total of 11 times. Tie off the end on the apron rod.
Tie the Merino Ribbon onto the apron bar and thread each of the two empty slots in between the slots threaded with Twizzle. When all of the spaces are filled, tie off the end on the apron bar.
Cut the loop at the peg and tie a loose overhand knot.
Wind on to the back beam, using a sturdy paper to separate the layers. Tighten up the warp as you go by pulling on the paper every round or so. Wind until the end of the warp is about 10" from the heddle.
Thread the heddle. Take one end out of the slot and thread it in the adjacent hole. Repeat until all the threads are threaded in the rigid heddle.
Tie onto the front apron rod in groups of about 1". I like to tie a knot in the center of the apron rod first to keep the apron rod from tipping. Tie using a surgeon's knot. Adjust the tension and then secure with a bow tie. You are ready to weave!
Tying On With A Surgeon's Knot, step by step
Take 2 bundles of 4 warp ends, wrap them around the apron bar, and bring up on the outside of the core bundle.
Tie a surgeon’s knot: bring the ends together and wind around like tying your shoes, but going around twice.
Tighten by pulling on the ends.
Then pull the knot tight.
Tie a bowtie to secure.