Handspun Caribbean Sunrise Scarf

Directions

Spinning

1. Split two one-ounce bundles of fiber and split them into four equal bundles.  Each bundle should have all four colors of fiber.  Spin two bundles as a gradient end-to-end, repeating the color sequence once and using a Z-twist (clockwise). Then spin the other two the same way using a worsted drafting technique.  Ply them together with an S-twist (counterclockwise).  This makes a gradient yarn with two color repeats.  I focused on spinning very fine singles with lots of twist so that I would have enough yardage for a scarf, even after plying, and so that I could weave at a sett of 20 ends per inch.  Finish the yarn by washing it in warm water and hanging it to dry. Example:  Spin light blue, yellow, dark blue, turquoise.  Repeat.  This is the first bobbin or spindle full of yarn.  Spin a second bobbin or spindle as you did the first.  Ply the two together.  The colors will blend a bit between color changes. Estimated spinning ratios: I used a ratio of about 14:1 to spin this yarn, but any ratio will work as long as you allow enough twist into your yarn so that it will be strong enough for warp. Note:  My finished yarn was fine and smooth and measured 36-40 wraps per inch.  I might note that the original dyer did not blend her fibers.  The light turquoise portion of the yarn is shiny like mohair, and the rest has the texture of regular BFL wool.  Though this caused slight tension issues in the weaving, it did not affect the finished scarf.

   

Calculate your warp to customize for your handspun yarn

1. I used a formula to determine how to weave this scarf.  Because I wanted the scarf to be slightly warp dominant, I chose a sett of 20 ends per inch.  I wanted a warp of 3 yards, so I took the total yardage of yarn (476 yards) and divided it by 3.  This told me that I could get up to 158 warp ends.  I divided the 158 warp ends by 20 ends per inch to calculate that my scarf could be 7 9/10 inches wide in the reed.  I wound my warp, using every bit of yarn I could.  (I recommend reserving a yard or two of each color to use as repair for broken warps.) To determine the number of warp ends you will have, measure the number of yards in your skein.  Divide by three.  This is how many warp ends you will have.  If you wish, reserve a yard or two of each color as you wind the warp, just in case of broken warp ends. To determine your sett, measure your wraps per inch.  Choose a convenient number somewhere between one-half and two-thirds of your wraps per inch.  For a warp dominant-scarf, you want this number closer to the two-thirds mark. Divide your number of warp ends by the sett to determine the width in the reed or rigid heddle.  For example, 158 ends divided by 20 epi is 7 and 9/10 inches.

Warping

1. Wind a warp of 158 ends (or the number you determined), three yards long, reserving a yard or two of each color for anticipated warp repairs.

2. Warp your loom according to your preferred method, threading the loom for plain weave. Sley a 10 dent reed with 2 ends per dent centering for a weaving width of 7 and 9/10 inches.

   
3. If desired, you can put on a slightly longer warp and sample the weft color by weaving an inch or so in plain weave of each of a few weft colors. I warped up my loom for plain weave and sampled some tencel weft colors I had on hand.  I was surprised that my favorite was not the one I had anticipated!
   

Weaving

1. Wind a bobbin or shuttle with your weft yarn.  Leave about eight inches of warp for a fringe (this may include the knots at the beginning of the warp).  Leaving a tail about four times the width of your warp, weave an inch or so in plain weave.  Thread the long weft tail through a hemstitching needle and hemstitch in bundles of four warp ends and two weft ends.
2. Continue weaving in plain weave until you run out of warp or the scarf is your desired length.
3. Cut the weft, leaving a tail about four times the width of your warp.  Use the tail to hemstitch as you did at the beginning.
4. Cut the project from the loom, leaving at least eight inches of warp for fringe.

Finishing

1. Using a rotary cutter and mat, trim the fringe even at eight inches long.
2. Using a fringe twister, divide each hemstitched bundle in two and twist.  Allow the two bundles to twist together and knot to secure.
3. Gently wet-finish the scarf by washing in warm water.  Roll in a towel to remove excess water and gently press to smooth out the fabric.  Allow the scarf to dry.